SHINEY, HEALTHY HAIR
Born with stick-straight ebony hair? Congrats -- as far as shine is concerned, you hit the jackpot. If, however, you're not among the genetically fortunate few, shine can still be yours. We've put together a comprehensive plan designed to infuse your hair with healthy shine at every turn -- no matter what its color or texture is -- with minimal fussing.
Shampooing
To boost sheen:
"Avoid washing your hair under really hot water," says Nancy Hamm, product development manager for Pantene. Hair absorbs water more readily at high temperatures. This excess moisture swells the hair shaft, and over time can cause the formation of tiny fissures in the surrounding cuticle that hinder light reflection.
The lower the pH of your shampoo, the more acidic it is and the more it will close the cuticle -- which is the key to super shine, says New York salon owner Mark Garrison. A good way to determine pH level is to test-drive a trial size. If it leaves your hair feeling squeaky-clean and tangly, steer clear -- chances are it's not a low-pH product.
Those with thick, coarse, or chemically processed hair benefit from shampoos labeled "moisturizing" because the extra emollients they contain coat the cuticle, making it lie smoother (try ABBA Creme-Moist Shampoo). People with thin or fine hair should go for deep-cleansing shampoos (such as Neutrogena Deep Clean) to remove shine-dulling grease. Daily-use products are best for those with normal hair (try Clairol Daily Defense Shampoo for Normal Hair).
Conditioning
Conditioners can prevent shine-dulling damage and produce incredible luster when you keep the following tips in mind:
While the sole purpose of shampoo is to take stuff (grease, product buildup) off your hair, conditioner actually deposits a film (your hair has a natural negative charge, and conditioner is positively charged, so it clings to the hair shaft despite rinsing). This light coating -- usually made up of protein and vitamins -- has the ability to "fill in" damaged portions of the cuticle layer, says Hamm. But when used in excess, conditioner can also cause hair to lose body and sheen. The trick is to apply it in small amounts, and only run it through the ends if your hair is fine.
Use a protein-enhanced deep conditioner every two weeks. The extra dose of protein (a natural component of healthy hair) will coat the hair shaft and make it more resistant to damage brought on by brushing and blow-drying (try Rusk Sensories Masque). One note: Curly heads should look for soft proteins (like wheat germ or soy) in their deep conditioners, says New York stylist Ouidad. These ingredients slide down hair easily -- a consideration for hard-to-coat curls (try KMS Curl Up).
Keeping hair "separated" (i.e., not tangled up in knots) is another way to guarantee shine. While rinsing out your conditioner, says Jamie Mazzei, a stylist at Nu Best Hair Salon in Manhasset, N.Y., detangle your hair with a wide-toothed comb.
Finish your shower with a blast of cold water to seal the cuticle.
Styling
Now that you've cleansed correctly, you're ready for the finishing touches -- styling and drying. Words to live by:
When straightening, blow-dry in a downward direction to avoid fluffing up the cuticle, and use a heat-protectant spray (try Paul Mitchell Seal and Shine). If your hair is curly, Ouidad recommends blow-drying on low or medium heat with a diffuser. Aim the air at the roots (as long as you're using a diffuser, this won't damage the cuticle), working out from the innermost layers of hair. This strategy keeps curls curly, not frizzy (frizz equals dullness). And never, ever flip your curly head over to blow-dry -- this is a sure recipe for frizz.
Make sure the section of hair at which you're aiming your blow-dryer is no wider than the width of the brush you're using. Drying across a thick area of hair will produce a lusterless windblown look.
Lots of styling aids (especially those containing silicones, otherwise known as dimethicone and cyclomethicone) will leave hair shiny when used in small doses, but if piled on, they can attract sheen-dulling dust. What to do? Use sparingly (think pea-size drops) and don't forget to use clarifying shampoo once every five to seven washes to remove buildup (try Redken Hair Cleansing Creme).
Sheen Boosters & Busters
DO up your potential for shine with an all-one-length hairdo. Layers sabotage that smooth, light-reflective surface responsible for shine.
DON'T expect great shine when using volumizing sprays or mousses, says Garrison. They plump up the hair shaft for added body, but this can fray the cuticle.
DO apply clarifying shampoo to dry hair (add a few drops of water to activate the lather). Dry application enables the clarifier to "lift" more debris before rinsing, says Sam Brocato, a Baton Rouge, La., stylist. Wash out with water.
DO use a home hair color in a hue that matches your natural shade to create the illusion of extra shine (try Revlon Super Lustrous Haircolor). Or, if you have blond hair, get thin, light blond highlights, which will provide similar results.
DON'T sweat it if you can't wash your hair every single day. "A little bit of natural oil from your scalp can help hair shine," says New York stylist Victoria DiSanto.
DO use a blond or red color-enhancing conditioner once every five washes if you have brown hair to add subtle highlights to your hair, says Chicago stylist and salon owner Mario Tricoci (try ARTec Color Moisturizer in Ginger Root or Strawberry). Stop when desired effect is achieved.
DO use shine-enhancing shampoos and conditioners (try Matrix Vital Nutrients ShineFusion Shampoo, Back to Basics Get Shine Conditioner) -- the added silicones and oils intensify sheen.
Can You Eat Your Way to Shiny Hair?
In a word: no.
But if you're not eating a well-balanced diet (particularly if you're low in vitamins E, C, A, and B, and protein), your hair could suffer, says Lisa Bulhack, R.D., a nutritionist at Elizabeth Arden Red Door Salon & Spa in New York. "Your body uses nutrients from the food you eat first and foremost to keep your internal organs healthy; whatever's left over gets distributed to your skin, hair, and nails," says Bulhack, which explains why the malnourished or those on very restrictive diets often have brittle hair. The answer: "Try not to let your diet dip below 1,500 to 1,800 calories a day, and eat a variety of foods," advises Bulhack. She also recommends downing six to eight 8-oz. glasses of water a day to keep hair from becoming dry.
Gleam on the Go
Don't have an extra second to spend on your hair? Here's how to get shine in no time, from Rodney Cutler, co-owner of the Arrojo Cutler Salon in New York.
If your hair is straight:
Mist hair with water from a spray bottle and massage a few drops of shine serum into locks (try Charles Worthington Results Seriously Shiny Silkening Serum), working out from the layers closest to the scalp. Comb hair to distribute product and let your tresses air-dry. Option #2: Brush dry hair with a boar-bristle brush to distribute scalp's natural oils, then comb a tiny dollop of styling cream through tresses (try Aveda Emollient for Hair).
If your hair is curly/wavy:
Mist hair with water, then spritz on a leave-in conditioner (try Pantene Pro-V Light Spray Conditioner) and finger-style curls into shape. Let hair dry naturally. To boost shine once hair has dried, top tresses with shine-enhancing spray (try Graham Webb Shine Hair Spray), making sure to spritz hair at arm's length.
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